gurdymonkey | A long day on my feet: Jidai Matsuri and the Shosoin Exhibition (Reply)

Bade goodbye to Emiko-san and the gang at Kyoto Hana Hostel. (She was floored when I handed over a bag containing four packages of Jelly Bellies and a card for her and the rest of the staff, but tipping is just not done in Japan. Small gifts called omiyage, however, are and since it was my longest stay, I came prepared.) Not a bad way to spend a few days in the city: clean, simple amenities and a useful location within a couple blocks of the train station and bus stops.

I dumped my suitcase and backpack in a coin locker at Kyoto Station, then went to the nearby central post office with a shopping bag full of stuff I wanted to ship. I had to visit the counter three times because the explanations of what I had to do in terms of describing the contents and value of what was in the box had not been clear the first time. They wanted each thing itemized separately and I had a pretty random assortment in there. However, I finally got the shipping label sorted to the satisfaction of the lady at the desk on my third shot back in the line and hopefully my package will hit Alameda Central Post Office in a couple of weeks.

I had originally bought a ticket for reserved seating for Kyoto's Jidai Matsuri (Festival of the Eras) online, but they'd given me a back row in a reviewing stand at the middle of the route. This meant (a) I was likely to be stuck behind people who wanted to take pictures on tablets and (b) I might not get down to Nara early enough to hit the museum exhibition I wanted to attend. So I decided instead to take a loss on the ticket, catch the subway to the Imperial Palace, find a spot to stand and watch before noon, Then back onto the subway, grab my stuff out of the locker and take the train to Nara after.

For this to work, I needed to get there early enough to stake out a spot, and I was there some time after 10 AM. Attendees were already gathering, vendors were selling all sorts of souvenir sweets - the trade in edible gifts is huge in a country where people tend to live in small homes and apartments. Not surprisingly, the press area had the best spot, with the palace framed at the top of a gravel drive, but there was a nice stretch along the curve leading to the gate out to the street that was facing a row of trees, so I picked a spot behind some people who were already seated on polythene mats right next to the ropes and waited.

I took a few test shots and decided I would use the 55-200mm zoom. The sky was overcast, which I tend to like for photography because you don't get weird shadows or blown out images if it's too bright. (That said, I just spent an awful lot of time adjusting contrast on the photos I downloaded because the light level kept changing!)

I even managed to snag a few pre-parade shots of the equestrian participants heading for the staging area, and a couple of mounted police officers in pastel robes and kanmuri (court hats) who would be leading the marchers out into the city. People filled in around us quickly. Behind me were a group of young Japanese guys who looked like students, to my right was an old man in a bucket hat armed with a point and shoot camera, who was soon crowded in upon by a couple of Chinese girls, one of whom evidently was going to loudly live-blog the whole shindig while waving her selfie stick around in as many people's way as possible while shooting it with her cell phone. I was just trying not to step on the woman immediately in front of me or the one sitting one rank back reading a book. The Japanese are pretty inured to crowds and no personal space, but I'm not and I really didn't want to be That Tourist.

Even with the Chinese chick and bucket-hat man leaning out as the parade approached, I managed to take over 500 photos of the costumed figures representing 1000 years of Kyoto's (and Japan's) history. I also managed to ignore Selfie Stick Girl and her companion who finally got up from where she was sitting on the ground and banged her head into my arm in the process. Didn't even act like I was there, much less apologize.

Finally, it was time to follow the crowd out the palace gates and down into the subway and onto a packed train back to Kyoto Station. I grabbed a sandwich and water from a convenience store after collecting my bags and dashed for the Kintetsu train line to Nara.

Note: In addition to Japan Rail, there are other private companies running rail routes throughout the country. JR and Kintetsu both have service to Nara, and because I was heading to Ise on the Kintetsu line in the AM, I had selected a hostel near THAT train station.] I ended up on a slow local train instead of the faster Limited Express, but that gave me a chance to sit after standing for nearly four hours.

Takama Guest House was three blocks from the station and I arrived about 4:30 so I could check right in. The proprietor served me a cup of chilled tea as I filled out my registration and that was a nice touch on a humid day. I was in a tiny 4-bunk female dorm this time, shared toilet and sink right outside, shower on the ground floor.

I took a bus to the Nara National Museum instead of trying to walk there - it's only about a kilometer, but I was already footsore enough. There was no wait for admittance, so going late on opening day of the exhibition worked out nicely, especially since they had extended hours. I still had to queue to see things, but that's normal, and frankly, there's something pretty nice about how much interest the Japanese have in their history.

Note: In 756 CE, the Emperor of Japan died. His Empress donated his favorite things to Todaiji Temple in Nara in a series of bequests beginning in the year he passed. Over 9000 objects and more than a millennia later, the Imperial Household and the Nara National Museum get together each year and decide which artifacts will be displayed to the public that fall. This year's exhibition included beautifully carved ivory rulers, furniture, fittings and beads from what survives of the "crowns" worn by the Emperor and Empress, a belt covered with lapis lazuli plates, ornate boxes, a set of beautiful paintings, furniture, documents, and other artifacts. Well worth seeing, and I'm glad I could fit it in.

On the off chance that it might be lit up, I figured I'd walk up to Todaiji. It was not - I jumped about a foot when one of the sika deer who roam loose through parts of the area let out this noise. Even realizing what it was, it's unnerving on a dark street.

I was tired enough that a walk around the neighborhood near the train station left me unable to decide where I wanted to eat. I grabbed another convenience store sandwich and ate it at the hostel.

There are two French women in the room with me. One of them has finally shut up and gone to brush her teeth, so maybe sleep will happen.

I took some Advil. Tomorrow's Ise. The train takes a little under two hours, and again, I'm staying someplace near the train station, so getting around shouldn't be crazy if I pace myself.