Are Tobi workpants tattsukebakama?

[gurdymonkey]

You decide....

Tobi (construction worker) pants.


Tattsuke-bakama. A form of hakama with built-in kyahan (gaiters) that became popular for military wear in the late 16th century.

Photo shamelessly ganked from www.sengokudaimyo.com - Sensei won't mind. Much.

I blame bovil and kproche. Ever since they showed me this article I've thought I'd love a pair of tobi pants for casual wear. They look comfortable and kinda fun.

Then the lightbulb went on. I knew how to do it. Tattsuke-bakama. Take the Sengoku-daimyo hakama pattern.  Make it shin length and close up the side seams instead of leaving classic hakama "doorknob catchers" so I can actually wear it with t-shirts and such. Sew a solid waist tie to the back half, possibly turning it into a drawstring closure in the front so they can be easily pulled on and off. Make a pair of slip-on kyahan based on the calf-to-ankle measurement of a pair of my narrow legged jeans. Pleat bottom of hakama into top of kyahan.

Awhile ago someone I know was cleaning out her house and gave me some kimono that will never fit me in a million years. One was a yukata made of a nice indigo/white kasuri. I took it apart the other night and while there is no way I could ever have worn it as a yukata, there's definitely enough to get a pair of these out of.

EDIT for Takadai-hime: Because a picture is worth, you know:

Obata Genjirou Torashi-dono in hakama - straight hems all the way to the ankle. (Yes, ladies, the picture does not do him justice. He's a fine figure of samurai manhood and a hell of a nice guy.)
http://www.wodefordhall.com/torashi2.jpg

Torashi-dono in hakama worn with kyahan (gaiters):
http://www.wodefordhall.com/torashi.jpg

Female model in tatsukebakama from Bokunan-do's online catalogue:
http://www.shop-japan.co.jp/english-boku/image-e/tattsuke-allblack-sample.jpg

Takeda-dono in sashinuki - these are very long hakama with a drawstring at the bottom hem. By tying the drawstring, the hem forms a pouf, sort of like harem pants. (Ditto on the fine figure of samurai manhood and a hell of a nice guy bit.)
http://www.wodefordhall.com/takedasuikan3.jpg

Comments

[takadai-no-tora.livejournal.com]

What makes them "tattsukebakama" as opposed to plain old garden variety hakama? I know there are lots of variations on the hakama theme, but I haven't yet found something matching names and good drawings and the descriptions seem to overlap a lot between types.
BTW, I think the tobi look very cool too. I wish I'd known about them when I was in Tokyo.

The bottoms do.

[gurdymonkey.livejournal.com]

As defined by Effingham-sensei, http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.ch01.html

"This form of hakama, also called “Iga-bakama,” is identical to conventional hakama except for one thing. The legs terminate in tubes which are tied tightly around the calves. The main leg section of the hakama, were they allowed to hang freely, would come to the mid-calf or lower; the tied section raises this up and allows the legs to blouse out.
The bottom section is similar to kyahan, and essentially the garment is a set of kyahan grafted to a slightly shortened hakama. A pair of straps on each calf section, one just under the knee and one at the ankle, secure these in place.
They are very convenient for walking around, and were quite comfortable and especially popular among military people or those on pilgrimages. They appeared, it seems, during the latter half of the sixteenth century."

Re: The bottoms do.

[takadai-no-tora.livejournal.com]

COOL!
Thank you, I think I need to make myself a pair of those.

Re: More examples.

[takadai-no-tora.livejournal.com]

You know, right before I posted my question to you, I'd been looking at Effingham-dono's site. I stopped about two entries above the tattsukebakama...

[protoblues.livejournal.com]

I have to thank you, you've given me some really good info here. If you ever do see this, do you know where Torashi got his? I've been looking everywhere for patterns to no avail, so any pointers are exceptionally helpful.

[gurdymonkey.livejournal.com]

Torashi is in hakama with kyahan, not tattsukebakama.

Pre Edo hakama pattern:
http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/graphics/patterns/hakama1.PDF?36,16

Tanki Yoriaku kyahan pattern:
http://www.rhinohide.cx/tousando/img/kiahan.jpg

[protoblues.livejournal.com]

Very cool, thanks. After checking out the catalogs from Tobi, I'm actually looking into making, well, a tobi. It really caught my eye and I'm really looking forward to sewing a set or two for myself.

Aside from that, I'm also on the track for a Tattsuke-bakama or Iga bakama pattern.

[gurdymonkey.livejournal.com]

I confess I don't see what the problem is. Kindly go back and read my journal entry.

All you need to do is use the Sengokudaimyo hakama pattern (or take a modern hakama pattern such as the one available from Folkwear if you want the koshi-ita), raise the bottom hemline to mid calf and pleat it into a pair of kyahan.

It really IS that simple.

would like to purchase iga- bakama

[nokioe4u.livejournal.com]

hello i am interested in purchasing two pairs of iga-bakama. want to know if you are selling them and for how much? i need a pair in white and a pair in black.

here are my measurements

Waist Circumference = .....81.3 CM
Waist to Ankel = ....99.1 CM
Calf Circumference = ....40.6 CM
Height = .....165 CM
Weight: ......81.8 KG

you can contact me by email: nokioe4u@bellsouth.net
i will provide phone number for contact upon hearing a reply from you.