Today's tea: Nodoka matcha from Ippodo

[gurdymonkey]

Some years ago at Estrella War, I taught my "period traditions in tea" class, which included tasting matcha. There was an earnest young man in a poet shirt and kilt who had waxed romantically about having seen "Shogun," and being deeply affected by the tea ceremony scene in which Mariko and her estranged husband engaged. EYM's eyes lit up as I heated water on a camp stove, offered my standard disclaimer about not having formally studied tea ceremony. I whisked up  a ceremonial grade matcha I'd bought in San Francisco's Japantown and sent a couple bowls around the table for people to taste. EYM's took the bowl reverently in his hands, sort of remembered he was supposed to turn it, did so, and vanished into its depths. The appalled, crushed look on his face as he reappeared was that of one whose dreams had been dashed by the bitter grass, seaweed and earth flavor that had invaded his tongue. I assured everyone that it was OK if they didn't like it. 

What is matcha? Simply put, it's powdered green tea. The Chinese practice of grinding tea leaves which had been steamed and dried was brought to Japan in the 12th century by the monk Eisai, who learned it from Chan (Zen) monks. This method of preparing and serving tea was the norm in Japan throughout the medieval period, it was what was done as Zen practitioners such as Murata Juko, Takeno Joo and Sen no Rikyu developed what we know as tea ceremony today. 

Like gyokuro (see yesterday's post), modern matcha is shade grown, the finest buds are picked and dried. The stems and veins are removed, then what is left of the leaves is milled into a fine powder. The grinding process must be done slowly, so that heat build-up doesn't affect aroma or flavor. (Shade growing developed during the 19th century.) EDIT: A feature on NHK 's "Trails to Oishii Tokyo" claimed that shade growing dates to the 16th century. More on this here. https://gurdymonkey.dreamwidth.org/951270.html

Nodoka means "serenity. This matcha is a limited spring release from Ippodo, arriving in a pretty pink box decorated with camelia blossoms. At $17 for 20 grams, it's relatively inexpensive compared with tea ceremony grades. (The website says it will be available through April unless they run out.)

Made as usucha (thin tea): 2g/80ml water brewed at 175 F, whisked vigorously for 15 seconds, per instructions from Ippodo. For "thick" koicha, they recommend 4g/30ml. The website also included matcha latte instructions. 

Nice fresh, grassy green color and aroma, got a decent foam, which abated slightly as I fumbled for my camera. 

Because this is a ground powder, you're getting a concentrated hit of flavor, theanine and caffeine in a relatively small volume of liquid. Japanese greens combine bitter and savory (umami) flavors, but the balance on this one is quite nice. The astringency is there, but it's not overpowering, and there's a little hint of sweetness as well.

In tea ceremony, matcha is traditionally paired with a sweet of some sort. I had mine with a vanilla wafer cookie.

Because the flavor is not sharp and overly bitter, this would make a very nice "gateway" matcha. 

Matcha-as-food-flavoring has become very popular. Because it has to blend or compete with what else is going on in the food it's going into, it tends to be much stronger than drinking matcha. Know what grade of matcha you're looking for before buying.

https://ippodotea.com/collections/matcha

Comments

[digitalsidhe]

I recognize a past version of myself in that earnest young man (honestly, including the poet shirt...), and I am glad to have acquired the taste for matcha somewhere along the way. But yes, I remember when I hadn't acquired it yet.

I am also glad you were kind to him in what must have been a painful moment for him.

[gurdymonkey]

I felt so badly for him. I think it was my first time teaching that class too, and it probably hadn't occurred to me that the taste would be such a shock, because I like Japanese greens.

[danabren]

That poor pup, bless his heart.